Drinking in the Countryside
Drinking in the Countryside: A Bit of Scotland in Every Wee Dram
More than any other liquor, the single malt whisky is a pure embodiment of the land in which it is produced. Just as the geographic regions of Scotland vary, so do the whiskies produced in those areas differ in subtle yet important ways. In fact, every step of the distillation process offers a myriad of regional and distillery variations which affect the final product.
Malting: Barley and Malting Fuel
Subtle variations exist in the basic ingredients of the malting stage: the barley, water, type of fuel, and even the regional differences of the fuel. The barley literally absorbs the characteristics of the local soil and water. Many distillers use "Golden Promise" barley, however more are now using different higher-yield varieties, Macallan once experimented with a higher yield barley which produced a decidedly inferior "dusty" and almost metallic whisky. The smoke of the fuel used to dry the malt permeates the grain. While many distilleries in Speyside and the Lowlands use coal, most use peat which is an abundant resource throughout Scotland. This accounts for the distinctive "peaty" overtones in the final product of Islay and the Northern Highlands. The peat itself may cause variations in the type of "phenols" absorbed by the malted grains. For example, the peat in Islay contains a higher concentration of decaying heathers, mosses, and grasses. On the mainland, the peat has developed from decaying forests.
Mashing: Water and Rock
The influence of the water is greatest in the mashing process. Some distilleries use streams that flow through hills and plains of moss and heather -- which add a herbal or flowery taste. Many distilleries use pure underground springs, which flow over and through rocky hills. Even the type of rock affect the water. The carbon-iferous rocks of the Lowlands create a similar taste to such whiskies as Glenkinchie and Rosebank. The granite of the Grampians softens the water used for the Speyside whiskies. Bowmore and Bruichladdich use water that flows through some of the oldest rock in Scotland -- which seems to impart an iron-like taste. The sandstone of the northeast contributes to the firmer body of Glenmorangie.
Fermentation: Yeast
Different yeasts at varying temperatures create slight variations in the chemical reaction that transform wort is into wash.
Distillation: Potstills
The size and shape of each still has some influence on the distillation. For example, in taller stills, the alcoholic vapor condenses in the upper reaches of the still. This produces a lighter whisky. A shorter still will produce a richer and oilier spirit. However, the discussion of the effect of the height of the still seems down-right secular compared to the religious fervor devoted to the impact of shape of the potstill. All stills are constructed of copper and all are hand-crafted to strict speci-fications of each distilleries. When forced to add new potstills, some distilleries insist on recreating older stills down to the most minute dent and imperfection.
Maturation: Wood, Casks, and Air
The type of cask and length of maturation also greatly affects the final product. Most single malts are aged in casks of oak, while some regions and distillers favor chestnut mahogany. In the pine-covered land of the Scots, oak is unfortunately rare. So, in the early days, Scots re-used the oak barrels used to produce English sherry. When the English taste for sherry diminished, distillers began using American oak casks used in making bourbon. Bourbon casks (used at Glenmorangie) produce a whisky that is usually mild and sweet with distinct vanilla notes, whereas sherry casks (used for The Macallan) impart heavier wine notes to the malt. While the whisky matures, it "breathes" the local air. In distilleries on the coast and islands, this produces a distinct "seaweedy" or briny overtone.
